Don't Try This At Home! - Testing fuses Part 1

[Kiriakos GR]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcwCGML3tT0&feature

Martin you did make it, to cheer me up, especially after trying the Fluke meter that you was having lots of confidence.

The inrush current is always much higher, and needs a fast clamp meter.
The 10A range is not enough.

The clamp meter that you have there, it did failed to do the job.
And some how, this is expected from hobby tools. 

[SeanB]

I would use the shunt and single shot on a scope, and use a big switch to do the smoke switching. Use a 24V battery bank for the automotive fuses, and a 48V bank for the glass fuses. This will provide enough energy to get them to arc as they fail, and is the DC voltage they are rated for.

For the AC fuses you will need to use a current transformer ( isolate scope from measured current safely) and a resistive load to limit the mains current ( and do this with the Eskom power not the inverter which will complain about it) so you will have to connect 3 1kW heaters in parallel ( or a 3kW geyser element and accept it will burn out pretty fast if things go pear shaped - use a 30A breaker as a switch to disconnect) to give a limited 15A with the full mains behind it.

[Kiriakos GR]

The all story reminded me the example of grabbing an arrow with naked hands.
Because this is all about.

At the blowing fuses all that you can measure is actually a single current spike. 
Which is meaningless as information.
 
The inrush current has a practical value as measurement, and also has duration much larger than a single spike.
Yes one oscilloscope it could capture the spike too, but even if it was possible to get a reading, still there is no value at knowing the max peak current.

The third way, is to study your source, the batteries specifications include information about their cranking Amperes.   
If you become aware about the cranking Amperes of your battery, then all that you need are measuring instruments which are capable to handle it.